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Hiking Kerlingarfjöll Geothermal Area (Icelandic Highlands)
Kerlingarfjöll is a hidden gem in the Icelandic Highlands, offering a unique hiking experience away from the crowded tourist spots of the Golden Circle. This geothermal area is a perfect addition to your itinerary if you’re looking for adventure and stunning landscapes.
Why Visit Kerlingarfjöll?
Located not far from Iceland’s famous Golden Circle, Kerlingarfjöll is surrounded by rocky green peaks and the Tuya volcano system. The colorful rhyolite hills, with their vibrant red and orange hues, create a surreal landscape filled with hot springs, geysers, steam vents, and boiling mud pots.
Travel Guide Highlights
- Exploring Hveradalir Geothermal Area: This area is characterized by its geothermal activity and stunning scenery. Some peaks, like Fannborg and Snækollur, are snow-covered year-round. I spent about four hours hiking around Hveradalir, feeling like an astronaut on another planet as I navigated through thick steam clouds.
Hiking Trails in Kerlingarfjöll
Kerlingarfjöll offers a variety of trails suitable for different skill levels:
- Hringbrautin Ring Route: A full 3-day trek that covers the entirety of Kerlingarfjöll, featuring mountain huts for overnight stays.
- Austurfjöll Peaks: A challenging 5-6 hour hike that takes you over the highest mountains in the area, including Snaekollur, which rises to 1,428 meters (4,684 feet).
- Hveradalir Walk: A standard 2-3 hour hike through the geothermal area, perfect for those looking for a shorter adventure filled with steam vents and hot springs.
The Legend of the Troll Woman
The mountains of Kerlingarfjöll are steeped in Icelandic folklore, with tales of trolls and outlaws. According to legend, the Troll Woman, Kerling, was turned to stone by sunlight after failing to return home before dawn. If you look closely, you might spot her 30-meter tall stone pillar among the peaks.
Getting to Kerlingarfjöll
Reaching Kerlingarfjöll requires navigating Iceland’s F-Roads, which are rugged jeep trails that can be challenging. A 4×4 vehicle is essential for this journey, as regular cars are not insured for these conditions. The F-35 road to Kerlingarfjöll is manageable, but be prepared for rough patches.
Golden Circle Extension
If you’re self-driving the Golden Circle, you can easily add Kerlingarfjöll to your itinerary. The drive from Gullfoss Waterfall takes about 2-3 hours via F-35, depending on your vehicle’s capability. Due to the remote nature of the highlands, ensure you have enough fuel, food, and warm clothing.
Accommodation in Kerlingarfjöll
Kerlingarfjöll features a small resort with:
- 20 double rooms and 10 individual cabins.
- Facilities include hot showers, bathrooms, a small shop, and a restaurant.
- There’s also a campground costing 2000 ISK ($16 USD) per person for those with their own tents.
From the cabins, a scenic path leads to a hot spring pool, about a 30-minute walk away.
Travel Tips for Kerlingarfjöll
- Know the Names: Kerlingarfjöll refers to the mountain range, while Hveradalir is the geothermal area.
- Accessing Hveradalir: You can hike from the resort (1.5 hours) or drive up a steep dirt road if you have a 4×4.
- Fuel Up: Fill your gas tank before entering the highlands; the gas station at Kerlingarfjöll may not always be operational.
- Plan for Muddy Trails: Depending on the season, trails can be muddy or snowy, so proper hiking boots are recommended.
- Stay on Marked Trails: The area is sensitive to foot traffic, so it’s essential to respect the environment by sticking to designated paths.
Conclusion
While many travelers flock to Iceland’s Golden Circle, the rugged beauty of Kerlingarfjöll offers an unforgettable alternative. With its stunning landscapes, geothermal wonders, and rich folklore, it’s a destination well worth the effort for those seeking adventure in the Icelandic Highlands.
